Tuesday, November 20, 2007

Bangkok Bound: The Sights, Sounds, and Shopping (part2)

Whew! I feel like I have stepped off the plane and onto my desk with hardly enough time to catch my breath! I arrived from Hong Kong at midnight on Sunday, and Monday was back to work and all the little things that seem to build up at a frightful pace when you are on holiday. Hong Kong was wonderful – great food, but more importantly great company :) We had relatively little time, but we manage to squeeze in a lot of gems like here and here, and my first time ever here. But before moving on to Hong Kong (and hopefully an actual food post soon!), here is the last of my Bangkok adventure…

Ayutthaya & the Summer Palace
The once dazzling capital of old Siam, Ayutthaya was a force to be reckoned with, holding sway over the region. Courted by foreign powers, it was seemingly undefeatable. But, as fate loves to deal with “seemingly undefeatable” things, they were conquered by the Burmese army in 1767. The city was destroyed, the temples desecrated, and the multitude of Buddha statues decapitated. Now we are left with the melancholy ruins that are at once sad (it is never a happy thing to see religious artifacts, no matter what religion, so intentionally destroyed) and majestic. And if you find a quiet spot and look out on the green grass and old crumbling structures, you may be able to catch a glimpse of the great city that it once was. Ayutthaya is about 1 1/2 hours out of Bangkok and for this day trip we booked a tour which took us there via van and returned via river cruise. Before heading to the ruins, we stopped at the Bang Pa-In Palace, the royals’ summer resort. The vast grounds were perfectly manicured and the buildings were a curious combination of Western and Asian styles. There were obviously Thai structures around, but the main mansion, the one the royal family actually uses in the summer, is made in European style. There was also a residence that was completely Chinese, all its parts having been shipped from China. There were topiaries and lakes (with turtles!) and gazebos. A veritable royal playground…I would love to spend summers there racing golf carts and feeding the turtles. Hmmm…perhaps someday when C & I make some royal friends. Until then, we explored and took pictures, and hurried out towards the tempting smells of sidewalk grilling! :)

Jim Thompson’s House
I already mentioned Thompson, the restaurant at Jim Thompson’s House where we ate after a rigorous morning at Chatuchak Market. As mentioned, this well loved (as far as I know) American settled in Bangkok after World War II (when he was working with some sort of a precursor to the CIA, and he was stationed in Thailand), finding New York City a tad to tame for his taste (imagine that). He built for himself a fabulous teak house (he used to be an architect, back during his “tame” days) by the river. He took parts of old abandoned Thai houses and assembled them into a gorgeous example of Thai architecture…with his own little twists. As we toured through the house, my bare feet cool on the wooden floors, I imagined what it must have been like back in its heyday – Jim entertaining scads of glitzy and interesting characters in the spacious living area, replete with Asian art and facing a lively river, his jungle-like garden shading the house in its exotic embrace. It’s that sort of a place…a place that encourages these lost-glamour type of fantasies. Or maybe I just have a wild imagination. Anyways, don’t think old Jim was just another ennui-filled expat. A lover of Thai culture and arts, much of the credit for today’s worldwide popularity of Thai silk lies with him. He sent samples of the beautiful material to the top fashion houses in Europe, creating quite a stir. To this day Thai silk remains very popular. The Jim Thompson House is located at the end of a soi (lane) near the MBK area. A lovely pocket of peace in an otherwise busy part of town packed with malls. Jim Thompson House: 9am-4:30pm. Soi Kasem San 2, off Thanon Rama 1. Tel – 02 6123601. Skytrain – National Stadium.

My First Thai Massage
If you are looking for a massage recommendation, you are better of looking here. We went to a random massage place near our hotel that C picked because of proximity. We had finished another day of being up and about, and I was lying in bed snoozing, when C said he would just go down to buy some water at a 7/11. Hah. He came back proudly announcing that he had found a place where we could have a massage. I was still toying with the idea of a Thai massage. You see, despite great massage places being all over my city, at excellent prices, I am not really a fanatic. Don’t get me wrong, I love the pampered feeling I get from a massage, but I need to have them very, very gentle. No deep-tissue action. No vehement cracking and pressing. But I was in Thailand and I really wanted to see what it was all about. So off we went to C’s little discovery for our massages. The girl who did my massage was charming and talkative. She chatted throughout the massage, which may seem counter-productive, but I enjoyed her Thai chattering (that I didn’t understand). Her voice was musical and her expressions so vivid, and they thankfully kept me distracted from the cracking. In Thai massage your whole body is stretched and cracked. The stretching I loved! She uses her body as a kind of counter-weight to stretch yours, resulting in the both of you in all sorts of weird positions. I don’t think I have ever stretched as much as I did then, and it felt fabulous! The cracking, now that’s a different story. I’m sure this part also affords great relief for some, but I think I was just too nervous that whatever part of my body she cracked would, um, really crack (as in break off). When she cracked my neck, so help me, I felt like I was in a Steven Segal movie! Of course, everything turned out well and she waved me off, still chatting with me in Thai, while I smiled and nodded and tried to pick up context clues. As I walked back to the hotel with C, I realized that my body did feel rejuvenated…it felt as if someone had oiled my joints, and now they were swinging smoothly in their sockets. My first Thai massage...aaah, another milestone in my list of simple pleasures :)

The most common question we get when back from Bangkok is, “What did you buy?” Or “Where did you shop?” This may seem a bit of a sacrilege to a place with mind-blowing cuisine and awe-inspiring sights, but in truth, it’s not (although it certainly isn't the only thing this city has to offer...or even the best it has to offer...my money is still on the food). Why? Because if they didn’t want us to gush about the shopping, then they wouldn’t have made it so dang fabulous, or so darn tempting…or so beguilingly affordable! Everything from teak furniture to high-end fashion to 150-bhat market finds. No matter what kind of shopping you do, there is a place in Bangkok ready to take you to its bosom and gently separate you from your cash (or firmly implant themselves onto your credit). I have only 3 words for you: Don’t fight it.

I will make this quick, and hopefully painless, so that you culture-vultures out there don’t weep from my cheapy shopping tales. Here goes: Chatuchak Market – I enjoyed Chatuchak more than I though I would. It was also less harassing then I was expecting. I think this is because I was warned about its mad crush of humanity more than once. We only saw a smidgen but surprisingly I got most of my lode from here. Cotton strapless tops in tropical prints, beach-y dresses, Christmas lights, shorts and vintage tees for C, spice mixes, tank tops, cute bags. Was in during the morning, out by lunch. Take the Skytrain stop Mo Chit. Suan Lum Night Bazaar – If you don’t have the time or patience for Chatuchak madness, Suan Lum is a good alternative. Much smaller, but also a lot calmer, you can still find goodies here. I got cute tank tops, silk bags, nice tees for me and C and friends, loads of earrings. There is a hawkers market where you can eat. MRT stop Lumphini. Those Bangkok Malls – I realized that, when away from home, I tend to gravitate more towards markets and little streets than these huge temples to commerce (probably because we have enough back here). We did hit MBK and Siam Paragon but honestly couldn’t get inspired. Maybe we were tired? Or broke? Siam Square – The little sois across from the Siam malls are filled with treasure waiting to be discovered. My favorite discovery being Mola (thank you Luxe Guides!), a tiny stationary store on Soi 11 – adorable notepads and I even found a Moomin date book!

There you have it! Bangkok...a beautiful whirlwind for the senses…I’m glad I let it take me for a spin :)


katiez said...

I'm ready to go!
You'e brave to get a massage from someone you can't talk to... The cracking would have worried me, too!
It's all so exotic looking and sounding - now if I can just figure out how to get there....

Freya and Paul said...

Beautiful article! I love the idea of the massage but I'll give the cracking a miss! Great photography!

katrina said...

I don't remember any cracking when I got a massage there, but there was definitely lots of stretching. I liked it, but I've had better massages here. However, F went back and got another type of massage with my friend's favorite masseuse, and he said it was "the best 1 & 1/2 hour massage money can buy."

I agree -- I didn't find Chatuchak at all as stressful as people say. Divisoria is more chaotic. I reallyi enjoyed that market; we were there for the whole day!

I guess since you didn't mention it, you didn't come upon Roti Sai Mai in Ayutthaya (or Paragon food court) either. Sayang, I don't know anyone who can relate to my love for this sweet snack! ;-)

veron said...

In the ruins there is so much history. Poor decapitated budhhas. But I love your story of your massage. I am apprehensive too and would prefer gentle handling- hearing my neck crack would freak me out to no end. You are one brave soul. Well , cannot wait to hear about Hong Kong - I had the most amazing peking duck over there.

Tartelette said...

Wow, I feel like i am right there! Thank you for another lvely travel post!

ChichaJo said...

Hi Katiez! Hehe...you only live once and aside from that neck-crack the stretching parts were bliss :)

Hi Freya and Paul! So happy to see you guys up and about :) Thanks for stopping by and glad you enjoyed the post :)

Hi Katrina! I don't like the cracking here either...even if it's just fingers and toes. Hmmm, wonder where F went...should have asked him for a recommendation too! I think I was ready for Chatuchak because I was in a market frame of mind...which is probably why I wasn't ready for MBK! Missed the Roti Sai Mai :( Sigh...more for next time!

Hi Veron! Truly such a rich history...and well documented too. Haha! I was saying little prayers during the neck-crack...it was really out of the moives! :) We also had a fantastic Peking Duck in HK...hope to post about it soon!

Hi Helene! I'm happy you enjoyed the post! :)

Manggy said...

(accidentally posted this in part one!)

That is awesome. Thanks for sharing! I hope to go one day when/if I have deep pockets.

I bought Yummy and read your article. It was interesting and if your intent was to make us all jealous, mission accomplished! I haven't yet documented my Europe trip from the Dark Ages in my blog but I'm starting to feel itchy again :) Thank you for your well-written article. It was a welcome break from the cute-mommy-oriented articles scattered throughout. Granted, that's majority of their readership, but I'm soo tired of Summit Media forcing their readers into a box, it's so unimaginative and stifling.) - ay, na-hurt? hehe.

mtan said...

Markets and Massages! A good friend who lives in Bkk introduced me to a sort of seedy looking massage place there, but external looks hid an amazing 2 hour experience, lots of stretching, pressure points, not too many crackings. But yes, the perennial chatter of the masseussessss (heehee) yakking away, not sure what kind of mantra they are saying, maybe removing bad juju while they are working on the muscles.

Rosa's Yummy Yums said...

Your post is making me daydream... Such a wonderful place to visit! Thanks for sharing!



P said...

I remember wandering around Suan Lum for hours - and enjoying it immensely - then coming back to the hotel without buying anything. But it was all good.

ChichaJo said...

Hi Manggy! I'm glad you enjoyed the article and thank you for the compliment :) Haha! My intent was to show people that anyone can cook...and to push you to post about your Europe trip, hehehe ;) Please do! (and keep checking the web for promo fares in and around Asia...lots of good deals out there nowadays)

Hi M! Sounds heavenly! I'm sure mine was removing bad juju because she was so charming...I
think she was telling me I looked young for my age...or maybe I was reading to much into it? ;) Hahahaha!

Hi Roda! It is a great place to visit...glad I got you daydreaming :) So many places I want to see, but so little time (and skinny wallet!) :)

Hi P! Just as long as you were in a nice shopping-Zen place, purchase not necessary :)

JMom said...

hi Jo, I've enjoyed reading your travelog :) Now get to the food already!

That massage sounds wonderful! I'm all for the deep tissue and cracking. Bring it on! Gosh, I miss a good massage.

oggi said...

Bangkok is such a wonderful place for sightseeing, shopping, and eating. There is Thai massage shop in my town, I might try it one of these days.
We lived in Hong Kong for more than 3 years and I can't wait to read your post!:)

Dee said...

Very nice post, Im sure to refer to this when I get to travel to Bangkok! Cant wait for your HK posts :)

Rasa Malaysia said...

I went to the same places like you did. :)

Paz said...

Like the comment above reads, I'm ready to go there, too. ;-) Wonderful post and photos.


canDIshhh said...

I miss Bangkok! I can't wait to go back! It seems like there are still so many places to go!!

Darn it!

Dhanggit said...

Finally we have the continuation of this trip LOL!! I remember i took the same photo of buddha trapped in the giant root of a tree :-) great photos as usual...speaking of ayutthaya i loved this place really amazing... i hope there will be part three of this travel posts..:-)

ChichaJo said...

Hi Jmom! The food posts came before this...check 2 posts back :)

Hi Oggi! I know there are a few places that do Thai massage here too...hmmm, must check that out :) Hong Kong was a blast albeit a short one...I'll post my highlights as soon as I can!

Thanks Dee! Let me know if you need more info...just email me anytime and I'll do my best! :)

Hi Bee! Birds of a feather! :)

Hi Paz! Thanks :) Glad you liked it!

Hi Candishhh! Me too!!! Looks like you did a lot too while you were there…I’m still going through your posts :)

Hi Dhanggit! It’s a famous photo opp I think :) I enjoyed Ayutthaya too…this is the last of Bangkok, sorry! But a bit of Hong Kong to follow :)

Bordeaux said...

Bangkok is an incredible city. I've often traveled here before and now I'm living in 'the giant mango'. Although I prefer onion, there are just so many layers and every week we still find new areas to explore and food to try. I'm glad you enjoyed your time here so much.

christine said...

I love your photos of Ayuthaya. I love that place!! And your post about the massage cracked me up again. I don't recall any cracking action during my Thai massage. I just remember being in pure bliss and having the best massage I've ever had in my life (and I have them pretty often). I swear I felt like a new woman when I walked out of that place. :)

I agree, Chatuchak is less stressful than Divisoria or 168 or other markets in other countries. Waiting now for the HK posts! :)

Em Dy said...

Looks like we booked the same tour. I remember walking in Ayutthaya under the hot sun (it was May), being overwhelmed with history, relaxing onboard the cruise with all that food.

We didn't go to Chatuchak even if it's listed in the 1000 places to go before you die. Settled for Suan Lum. Great finds. Haggling was the rule.

MyKitchenInHalfCups said...

Certainly your trip was filled with sights sounds and shopping extravaganza. Travel should take you away and give you new experience. You certainly got that! Great photos again Joey! Thanks.

ChichaJo said...

Hello Bordeaux! Lucky you to be living in such an interesting "onion" of a city -- I love the way you have named it that and I definitely agree :) I wish I had more time to explore the onion myself! I can now visit you blog though to get my fill! :)

Hi Nens! Thanks! :) Coming from a great photographer like you that means a lot...especially since I work with an "antique" digital point-and-shoot (when I travel)! Guess what...I have never been to Divisoria or 168...Yikes! More places you will have to give me the "tour" of please (like Cash & Carry...hahaha!) :) I think I was really in a Zen-shopping mood in Chatuchak...

Hi Em Dy! Yes, probably...I think a lot of these tours are standard :) Since it was November it was a little less hot :) I enjoyed Suan Lum too!

Hi Tanna! Thanks :) When I visit a new place I like to take in as much as I can...food, sights, shopping, people watching, etc, etc, etc...as much as time and wallet will allow ;)

Anonymous said...

Be careful when you visit a tea house on Soi 14, at the corner of Suhkumvit and Soi 14. I bought a tea set that had a listed price of THB600. The owner had also confirmed the price of THB600. When I received my change, the receipt issued was for THB650. I pointed the price tag on the tea set and the owner said the tag was a mistake. The owner is not honest at all.

ChichaJo said...

Hi Anonymous! Thanks for the tip!